Tried the cheapest Michelin starred tasting menu in SF

When I recently arrived at the Marlena for an early dinner reservation, a Nirvana song played over the speakers. I immediately felt at ease.

The restaurant is at the foot of a 100-year-old Victorian building, but the interior is contemporary with cool tones, a curved kitchen counter, and black-and-white art. But with sunlight streaming through the windows and dogs playing in Precita Park across the street, the vibe is warm and casual.

Marlena opened in the summer of 2020, an idea by top chef couple David Fisher and pastry chef Serena Chow. They met while working at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York City before they both ended up at Bird Dog in Palo Alto.

The couple opened Marlena with the goal of creating an appealing fine-dining restaurant—the starting menu for a three-course fix meal was just $40. It was worth it: in September 2021, they received their first Michelin star, and that same winter, Chow was named Best Pastry Chef in America by Esquire Magazine.

While Marlena is a few notches cheaper than many other Michelin-star restaurants in San Francisco, the service is definitely on par. It’s the kind of attention I’ve only seen at restaurants like Californios, which has two Michelin stars: fresh plates and cutlery between each course, the napkin neatly folded on the table for you as soon as you get up, to go to the toilet, not to mention the very friendly and knowledgeable waiters.

Now to the menu. When I visited, the tasting menu was full of spring, tender green asparagus and bright red strawberries. For $75, you have a choice of two dishes for each of the four courses, with additional courses such as roast lamb loin available for an additional fee.

But in my opinion there is only one thing to add: the Marlena milk bread with sour butter for an additional $2.50 per person. Slightly sweet and pillowy, the little rolls are sprinkled with salt flakes and served with a buttery butter so decadent I could have eaten them plain. Our bread was even refilled once at no extra cost.

The advantage of traveling to Marlena with a guest is that you can order a different option for each course and then share it so you can try everything.

I was a fan of both starters: the farro verde, whose delicious grains were served with slices of asparagus and chives and topped with a surprisingly light Ramps hollandaise sauce; and the Hokkaido scallops served raw with a chilled Coachella corn sauce, jalapeño granita, and sea grapes.

The Farro Verde with California green asparagus, chives and ramped hollandaise; the Hokkaido scallops with chilled coachella corn, jalapeño granita and sea grapes. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)
The Farro Verde with California green asparagus, chives and ramped hollandaise; the Hokkaido scallops with chilled coachella corn, jalapeño granita and sea grapes. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)

While the farro was more of a savory crowd pleaser, I couldn’t stop thinking about the unexpected combination of textures and temperatures in the slippery, oceanic scallops paired with the cool sweetcorn and icy jalapeño.

Next came the pasta course. The Provençal white asparagus risotto with green strawberries, sunflower sprouts and nasturtium felt a little repetitive after the farro asparagus starter, although the addition of strawberries was a welcome change. I prefer the more flavorful charcoal cavatelli with tiny bits of hot dog bun pasta swimming in a smoky burrata sauce with apricot and spring onions.

Some people might get tired of seeing burrata on restaurant menus, but I can never get enough — especially when it comes to pasta.

Then came the main course. Can’t comment on the grilled sakura pork neck with cream sheet, broad beans, and potato terrine (I’m a pescetarian), but my dinner companion reported that the meat was cooked to perfection. I had the seared black cod served with artichokes, tarragon and an English pea sauce. When I tell you I couldn’t stop eating that pea sauce, I really mean it.

The cod was immaculately cooked, crispy on top and juicy on the inside, but the pea sauce was on another level. I probably would have licked the plate clean if we weren’t at a Michelin starred eatery.

Roasted Black Cod with Artichoke Barigoule, Tarragon and English Pea; Grilled sakura pork neck with sour cream sheet, sour beans and potato terrine. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)
Roasted Black Cod with Artichoke Barigoule, Tarragon and English Pea; Grilled sakura pork neck with sour cream sheet, sour beans and potato terrine. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)

Finally it was time for dessert. This was the most beautifully presented course of the series, particularly the colorful early season Glenn cherry. It was a sort of deconstructed cake, with chunks of savory sour cream lemon sponge cake, a buttery pistachio crumble, fresh ume, and naturally tart cherry halves.

The other dessert was the chocolate rye dessert with a similarly artful presentation: a pile of devil’s food cake, seeded rye shortcrust streusel sprinkles for textural contrast, and fresh blackberries to emphasize the sweetness, topped with dollops of whipped cream and a donut Chocolateglaze.

Both were fantastic demonstrations of Chow’s award-winning pastry skills. It really just comes down to whether you’re more of a fan of chocolate desserts or fruit desserts, these are categories I’m adamant that exist (if you must know, I’m a fruit lover).

The entire meal took less than two hours and left me pleasantly full. Along with the milk sandwich and a glass of wine each, plus sales tax, an included 20% gratuity, and an SF Mandate surcharge, it cost $251.20, or about $120 per person. If we had skipped the wine and bread the cost per person would have barely gone over $100.

(Top left clockwise) Marlena’s kitchen staff; Chocolate Rye, with Devil’s Food Cake, rye biscuits and blackberries; the interior dining area at Marlena; Early season Glenn cherry with sour cream lemon sponge cake, pistachio crumble and fresh ume. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)
(Top left clockwise) Marlena’s kitchen staff; Chocolate Rye with Devil’s Food Cake, Rye Cookies and Blackberries; the interior dining area at Marlena; Early season Glenn cherry with sour cream lemon sponge cake, pistachio crumble and fresh ume. (Douglas Zimmerman/SFGATE)

While Marlena didn’t serve up the most amazing gourmet meal I’ve eaten in San Francisco, the courses were still fresh, delicious, and elegant. I would come back in a heartbeat – not just for a lazy Tuesday, but even for a special birthday dinner. And at a fraction of the price (and time-consuming) of other Michelin-starred tasting menus, it tasted even better.

It’s no $6.50 pork chop lunch, but for the accessible taste of luxury it offers, rest assured: Marlena is a bargain.

Marlena, 300 Precita Ave, San Francisco. Open Monday to Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m